OBOC - Botswana

I don't know what it is about African authors, but all the books from Africa that i've read so far have left me wanting more and that is very true of "When Rain Clouds Gather" by Bessie Head. Rural Botswana comes to life in this book and I believe the central theme is one of regeneration in the midst of hopelessness.

When Makhaya crosses the border from South Africa fleeing oppression under the Apartheid regime, he didn't expect much in Botswana. Here was a country that didn't see as much cruelty as his South Africa, yet there was the frustrating unwillingness to give up old tribal ways hampering progress and prosperity.

But amidst all the hopelessness he is surprised in countless different ways - an ingenious white man (Gilbert) living amidst the villagers of Golema Mmidi striving to bring a positive change with his ideas on agriculture and cooperatives, finding hospitality among the penniless, surprised by the widow Pauline's defiant spirit despite her situation, surprised by a stranger's willingness to stick his neck out for him, surprised by how the almost barren land can actually support agriculture, surprised by how art flourishes even in an arid cattle post in the middle of no where even when one is looking into the eyes of death!

That is the central motif - there is hope even in the most dire circumstances and the human spirit somehow finds a way to harness that hope to triumph. The second theme i found is oppression - Apartheid in South Africa and Tribal lords in Botswana - both exploiting the poor to live a king's life. The third theme is the clash between tribal ways and modernism. Makhaya is often frustrated by his fellow villagers' inability to give up traditional tribal ways even in the promising face of modernism. But to Bessie Head's credit, she does not portray the Batswanas as dumb, illiterate people. Someone once mentioned to me how even Gandhi had commented that it is one thing to immerse yourself in tradition, it is another thing to drown in it. I guess Makhaya was referring more to the latter.

From what I read about Bessie Head, I don't think she was as welcomed as Makhaya when she first migrated to Botswana. Nevertheless she fell in love with her adopted country and this novel brings out her love in beautiful prose. She is not in any way an apologist for colonialism but she has still managed to portray the humanity of the Englishman in Gilbert, who is kinda a misfit among his own countrymen. While I was a bit disappointed that here was one more story where a whiteman had to show the path to progress for the natives, I willingly overlooked that given the partnership between Makhaya and Gilbert and the crucial role played by Pauline in the story.

Overall a wonderful story that gave me some great insights and perspectives about Botswana!